{"license":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","about":"The input of the Perfume Autopsy for a teaching accord: its teaching variants (each labelled \"teaching variant, modeled\") and their components, read from the records named in each field. The model reuses the Causal Debugger’s model; everything it computes is modeled. Not a commercial perfume formula and not any real perfume’s formula.","accord":"amber-teaching-accord","name":"An amber (the perfumer’s, not the resin)","version":3,"updated":"2026-10-01","disclaimer":"A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.","href":"/perfumery/accord/amber-teaching-accord.html","halfLife":{"top":1.5,"heart":6,"base":12,"ev":{"e":"modeled","n":"the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”"}},"components":[{"key":"labdanum-absolute","id":"labdanum-absolute","type":"material","name":"labdanum absolute","href":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume","c":"B","n":"the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute"},"desc":["balsamic","amber"],"descEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s words; LAB-1 documents its use for \"its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris\", not these words","v":"balsamic, amber"},"mols":[],"molsNote":"no constituent molecule on record","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":[],"regEv":{"n":"no Regulation record names it"},"prov":[{"t":"from Cistus ladanifer L.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/cistus-ladanifer.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Gago C, Bakchiche B, Djekhioua T, da Graça Miguel M","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30224425"}],"q":"Raw gum labdanum is a resin extracted from the photosynthetic leaves and stems of","c":"A"}},{"t":"no origin on record for Cistus ladanifer L.","ev":{"e":null,"n":"the botanical record names no Origin record"}},{"t":"A resin in a Carthaginian tomb, identified as labdanum (6th–5th century BC) (probable)","href":"/perfumery/event/carthage-labdanum-sample.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Gago C, Bakchiche B, Djekhioua T, da Graça Miguel M","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30224425"}],"q":"A resinous archeological sample from a tomb in Carthago (6th–5th century BC), housed in the Fragonard Museum (Grasse, France), was identified as labdanum, resin of the Cistus species, although no direct documentation supported this identification","c":"B"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)"}}]},{"key":"vanillin","id":"vanillin","type":"molecule","name":"vanillin","href":"/perfumery/molecule/vanillin.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"Typically, fresh and citric odorants, e.g., limonene, are top notes, while warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes","c":"A","n":"the same sentence: \"warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes\""},"vol":"base","volEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the house’s volatility table is a set of site constants, not measurements)"},"desc":["vanilla","sweet"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kreissl et al. (2022). Leibniz-LSB@TUM Odorant Database, Version 1.2","h":"https://www.leibniz-lsb.de/en/databases/leibniz-lsbtum-odorant-database/"}],"q":"4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin) | CAS 121-33-5 | Odor quality: vanilla-like, sweet","c":"A","v":"vanilla-like, sweet"},"mols":[{"id":"vanillin","name":"vanillin"}],"molsNote":null,"thr":{"v":53,"unit":"µg/kg","medium":"water","method":"orthonasal odour detection threshold in water, determined by the method of Czerny et al. 2008, Eur Food Res Technol 228:265–273, as the database states","ev":{"e":"measured","s":[{"t":"Kreissl et al. (2022). Leibniz-LSB@TUM Odorant Database, Version 1.2","h":"https://www.leibniz-lsb.de/en/databases/leibniz-lsbtum-odorant-database/"}],"c":"A","n":"the retronasal threshold in the same study is 210 µg/kg (OT-1)"}},"thrNote":null,"regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"346 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxybenz-aldehyde (*4) Vanillin 121-33-5","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"occurs in cured vanilla pods","href":"/perfumery/material/cured-vanilla-pods.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"de Oliveira RT, da Silva Oliveira JP, Macedo AF","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/plants11233311"}],"q":"In exceptional-quality vanilla pods, vanillin crystals can be observed in the form of small white needles (called, in French, givre) (Figure 2).","c":"B","n":"the crystals (givre) on exceptional cured pods"}},{"t":"Tiemann and Haarmann patent a vanillin synthesis, 1874 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/tiemann-haarmann-vanillin-1874.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Lanfranchi et al. (2025). Transforming a Historical Chemical Synthetic Route for Vanillin Starting from Renewable Eugenol to a Cell-Free Bi-Enzymatic Cascade","h":"https://doi.org/10.1002/cssc.202500387"}],"q":"In 1874, more than 150 years ago, … chemical synthesis of vanillin 3 was patented by Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann starting from coniferin.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; no price is filed for molecules"}}]},{"key":"frankincense-resin","id":"frankincense-resin","type":"material","name":"frankincense","href":"/perfumery/material/frankincense-resin.html","onRecord":true,"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for frankincense-resin"},"desc":["lemony","piney","balsamic"],"descEv":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"the house essay’s words; no descriptor source is filed","v":"lemony, piney, balsamic"},"mols":[{"id":"incensole-acetate","name":"incensole acetate","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Miran et al. (2022). Taxonomical Investigation, Chemical Composition, Traditional Use in Medicine, and Pharmacological Activities of Boswellia sacra Flueck","h":"https://doi.org/10.1155/2022/8779676"}],"q":"Four new cembrane-type diterpenoids, including boscartins (16–19), together with five known compounds (1S, 3 R, 11S, 12 R, 7E)-1,12-epoxy-4-methylenecembr-7-ene-3,11-diol (20), isoincensole oxide (21), incensole oxide (22), incensole acetate (23), and incensole oxide acetate (24) were isolated from B. sacra gum resin by Wang et al.","c":"B","n":"isolated from B. sacra gum resin (cited by GC-16 to Wang et al.); GC-17 calls it “a Boswellia resin constituent” (GC-17)"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":[],"regEv":{"n":"no Regulation record yet"},"prov":[{"t":"from Boswellia sacra Flück.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/boswellia-sacra.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Yamamoto et al. (2020). Roles of ethylene, jasmonic acid, and salicylic acid and their interactions in frankincense resin production in Boswellia sacra Flueck","h":"https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-73993-2"}],"q":"In the Dhofar region, frankincense is harvested by tapping the trunks and branches of B. sacra trees, as for B. papyrifera in Ethiopia4.","c":"A"}},{"t":"grown in Dhofar","href":"/perfumery/origin/dhofar-om.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Yamamoto et al. (2020). Roles of ethylene, jasmonic acid, and salicylic acid and their interactions in frankincense resin production in Boswellia sacra Flueck","h":"https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-73993-2"}],"q":"In Dhofar Governorate, the main region of frankincense production in Oman, B. sacra trees are the most economically important plants, as the commercial and phytopharmaceutical source of frankincense production5.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)"}}]}],"regs":{"eu-2023-1545":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2023-1545.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Therefore, an obligation to individually label those fragrance allergens should be introduced in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 when their concentration exceeds 0,001 % in leave-on products and 0,01 % in rinse-off products.","c":"A"}}},"variants":[{"id":"v1","label":"The amber as written","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"the record as written","why":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention)","v":"The amber as the record writes it: labdanum and vanillin as a warm, sweet, resinous base, lifted by a balsamic resin."},"links":[],"parts":{"labdanum-absolute":45,"vanillin":35,"frankincense-resin":20},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v2","label":"Vanillin-forward","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"house teaching example","why":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume","v":"A house teaching example: more vanillin and less resin, to show the sweet side of the amber taking over. The vanillin synthesis on record is linked for context."},"links":[{"href":"/perfumery/event/tiemann-haarmann-vanillin-1874.html","label":"Tiemann and Haarmann patent a vanillin synthesis, 1874","kind":"event"}],"parts":{"labdanum-absolute":30,"vanillin":55,"frankincense-resin":15},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v3","label":"Resins, no vanillin","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"house teaching example","why":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume","v":"A house teaching example: the amber without vanillin, labdanum and frankincense alone, to show what the sweet part was doing."},"links":[],"parts":{"labdanum-absolute":60,"frankincense-resin":40},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}}]}