{"license":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","about":"The input of the Perfume Autopsy for a teaching accord: its teaching variants (each labelled \"teaching variant, modeled\") and their components, read from the records named in each field. The model reuses the Causal Debugger’s model; everything it computes is modeled. Not a commercial perfume formula and not any real perfume’s formula.","accord":"fougere-teaching-accord","name":"The fougère skeleton","version":2,"updated":"2026-09-30","disclaimer":"A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.","href":"/perfumery/accord/fougere-teaching-accord.html","halfLife":{"top":1.5,"heart":6,"base":12,"ev":{"e":"modeled","n":"the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”"}},"components":[{"key":"bergamot-essential-oil","id":"bergamot-essential-oil","type":"material","name":"bergamot essential oil","href":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html","onRecord":true,"role":"top","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil"},"desc":["fresh","citrus"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"odore: caratteristico, gradevole, fresco, richiamante quello del pericarpo del Bergamotto;","c":"A","n":"the specification’s odour line, in English; colour “da verde a giallo verdastro”, green to greenish yellow (PDO-1)","v":"characteristic, pleasant, fresh, recalling the bergamot’s peel"},"mols":[{"id":"limonene","name":"Limonene","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998)"}},{"id":"linalyl-acetate","name":"linalyl acetate","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot"}},{"id":"linalool","name":"linalool","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence"}},{"id":"bergapten","name":"Bergapten","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"The non-volatile fraction (4–7% of total) contains pigments, waxes, coumarins, and psoralens (such as 5-methoxypsoralen, also known as bergapten or 5-MOP, contained in about 0.2%), as well as bergamottine [5-geranyloxypsoralen]) (Dugo et al., 2000).","c":"B","n":"a psoralen of the oil’s non-volatile fraction (5-methoxypsoralen); cited there to Dugo et al. 2000"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed","ifra-citrus-furocoumarins","eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf"},{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_089.pdf"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"CAS-No.: 8007-75-8 89957-91-5","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"from Citrus bergamia Risso","href":"/perfumery/botanical/citrus-bergamia.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"La denominazione di origine protetta \" Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\" è riservata esclusivamente all'olio essenziale estratto con il metodo cold pressed dal frutto Citrus Bergamia Risso nelle varietà Femminello, Castagnaro e Fantastico, prodotti negli impianti iscritti nel corrispondente albo dei bergamotteti che sarà tenuto presso l'organismo di controllo.","c":"A"}},{"t":"grown in Calabria","href":"/perfumery/origin/calabria-it.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"La zona di produzione della denominazione di origine protetta \"Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\", comprende l'area vogata della provincia di Regione Calabria, comprendente i seguenti comuni: Scilla, Villa San Giovanni, Campo Calabro, Fiumara","c":"A","n":"the PDO zone: comuni of the province of Reggio Calabria"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log)"}}]},{"key":"lavender-essential-oil","id":"lavender-essential-oil","type":"material","name":"lavender essential oil","href":"/perfumery/material/lavender-essential-oil.html","onRecord":true,"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes","c":"A","n":"the review names lavender among the floral heart notes"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil"},"desc":[],"descEv":{"n":"no descriptor on record for the oil; the essay’s “refined, slightly sweet” is given to linalyl acetate"},"mols":[{"id":"linalool","name":"linalool","ev":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the page’s essay names linalool beside linalyl acetate as fine lavender’s pair; no analysis or specification of the oil is filed (the AOP/ISO specification would be the source), so this stays the trade’s convention"}},{"id":"linalyl-acetate","name":"linalyl acetate","ev":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"as linalool: named in the page’s essay, no filed analysis"}},{"id":"alpha-terpineol","name":"α-terpineol","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…","h":"https://www.culture.gouv.fr/Media/Thematiques/Patrimoine-culturel-immateriel/Files/Fiches-inventaire-du-PCI/Les-pratiques-de-culture-des-lavandes-en-Haute-Provence"}],"q":"Elle est aussi mise à pré-faner afin d’obtenir une huile essentielle moins riche en alpha-terpinéol, et donc de meilleure qualité.","c":"B","n":"HV-4 records the growers’ practice: the cut lavender is pre-wilted so the oil is less rich in α-terpineol. Named, not measured"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Lavandula angustifolia oil/extract (*4) Lavandula Angustifolia Oil;","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"from Lavandula angustifolia Mill.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/lavandula-angustifolia.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…","h":"https://www.culture.gouv.fr/Media/Thematiques/Patrimoine-culturel-immateriel/Files/Fiches-inventaire-du-PCI/Les-pratiques-de-culture-des-lavandes-en-Haute-Provence"}],"q":"La lavande fine est cultivée en altitude, au-dessus de 800 m dans le périmètre de l’AOC créée en 1981.","c":"B","n":"the Argens section of HV-4: fine lavender grown at altitude and distilled on the farm; the fiche’s « lavande » is generic elsewhere"}},{"t":"grown in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence","href":"/perfumery/origin/alpes-de-haute-provence-fr.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…","h":"https://www.culture.gouv.fr/Media/Thematiques/Patrimoine-culturel-immateriel/Files/Fiches-inventaire-du-PCI/Les-pratiques-de-culture-des-lavandes-en-Haute-Provence"}],"q":"La lavande fine est cultivée en altitude, au-dessus de 800 m dans le périmètre de l’AOC créée en 1981.","c":"A"}},{"t":"grown in Grasse","href":"/perfumery/origin/grasse-fr.html","ev":{"e":"inferred","s":[{"t":"Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…","h":"https://www.culture.gouv.fr/Media/Thematiques/Patrimoine-culturel-immateriel/Files/Fiches-inventaire-du-PCI/Les-pratiques-de-culture-des-lavandes-en-Haute-Provence"}],"q":"En altitude, comme à Argens ou Castellane (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence) ou à Grasse (Alpes-Maritimes), la lavande est récoltée sur une période plus longue, du mois de juillet jusqu'à la mi-août.","c":"C","n":"the sentence says « la lavande », which the fiche uses generically (p. 2); which lavender grows at Grasse is not stated"}},{"t":"The AOC for Haute-Provence lavender, 1981 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/lavender-aoc-1981.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…","h":"https://www.culture.gouv.fr/Media/Thematiques/Patrimoine-culturel-immateriel/Files/Fiches-inventaire-du-PCI/Les-pratiques-de-culture-des-lavandes-en-Haute-Provence"}],"q":"Dans les années 1980, les cultivateurs de lavande fine se regroupèrent et créèrent une AOC « Lavande de Haute Provence », en 1981, afin de se démarquer et de faire reconnaître les propriétés de leurs produits.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log); HV-4 quotes 2017 lavandin prices, not used"}}]},{"key":"named-geranium-oil-no-material-record-yet","id":null,"type":null,"name":"geranium oil","href":null,"onRecord":false,"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no record for this component, so no volatility class"},"desc":[],"descEv":null,"mols":[],"thr":null,"thrNote":"no record for this component","regs":[],"regEv":null,"prov":[{"t":"no record for this component yet: nothing about it is on record","ev":{"e":"house interpretation","n":"named by the accord record without a Material or Molecule record"}}]},{"key":"coumarin","id":"coumarin","type":"molecule","name":"Coumarin","href":"/perfumery/molecule/coumarin.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for coumarin"},"desc":["sweet","spicy","hay"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"Coumarin (46) has a sweet, slightly spicy, and hay-like scent","c":"A","v":"sweet, slightly spicy, hay-like"},"mols":[{"id":"coumarin","name":"Coumarin"}],"molsNote":null,"thr":null,"thrNote":"no odour-threshold source on record","regs":["ifra-coumarin","eu-2009-1223"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_023.pdf"},{"t":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj"}],"q":"CAS-No.: 91-64-5","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/perkin-coumarin-1868.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"synthesis of coumarin by Perkin in 1868 was a breakthrough in the history of natural odorant synthesis","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; no price is filed for molecules"}}]},{"key":"oakmoss-absolute","id":"oakmoss-absolute","type":"material","name":"oakmoss absolute","href":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute"},"desc":["mossy"],"descEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell","v":"mossy"},"mols":[{"id":"atranol","name":"2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A"}},{"id":"chloroatranol","name":"3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-oakmoss-extracts","eu-2009-1223","eu-2017-1410"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"},{"t":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"CAS-No.: 90028-68-5 68917-10-2 9000-50-4","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/evernia-prunastri.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.","ev":{"e":null,"n":"the botanical record names no Origin record"}},{"t":"HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)"}}]}],"regs":{"eu-2009-1223":{"name":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition (Annex III): named in the list of ingredients above a stated concentration; and prohibitions (Annex II)","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2009-1223.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj"}],"q":"The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients referred to in Article 19(1)(g) when its concentration exceeds: ,  0,001 % in leave-on products ,  0,01 % in rinse-off products","c":"A"}},"eu-2017-1410":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)","body":"EU","kind":"a prohibition (Annex II)","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2017-1410.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A"}},"eu-2023-1545":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2023-1545.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Therefore, an obligation to individually label those fragrance allergens should be introduced in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 when their concentration exceeds 0,001 % in leave-on products and 0,01 % in rinse-off products.","c":"A"}},"ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A"}},"ifra-citrus-furocoumarins":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-citrus-furocoumarins.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_089.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A"}},"ifra-coumarin":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Coumarin","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-coumarin.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_023.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A"}},"ifra-oakmoss-extracts":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","c":"A"}}},"variants":[{"id":"v1","label":"The skeleton as written","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"the record as written","why":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252"}],"q":"In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant","c":"B","n":"the materials are documented; the proportions are the house’s teaching parts, not Fougère Royale’s (none are on record, and none are given)","v":"The skeleton as the record writes it: the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, with lavender as the family has used it since."},"links":[{"href":"/perfumery/event/fougere-royale-launch.html","label":"Fougère Royale: Houbigant, 1882 or 1884","kind":"event"},{"href":"/perfumery/fragrance/fougere-royale.html","label":"Fougère Royale","kind":"fragrance"}],"parts":{"bergamot-essential-oil":20,"lavender-essential-oil":30,"named-geranium-oil-no-material-record-yet":15,"coumarin":20,"oakmoss-absolute":15},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v2","label":"Without oakmoss","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"regulation on record","why":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products.","c":"B","n":"the rules are documented (their Regulation records); the proportions and the response are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record","v":"The oakmoss rules. An IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law) restricts oakmoss extracts by concentration and specifies their atranol and chloroatranol; EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits atranol and chloroatranol in cosmetic products from 23 August 2019. Leaving the moss out, its parts given to lavender and coumarin, is a house teaching example of the strictest response."},"links":[{"href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts.html","label":"IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts","kind":"regulation","words":"IFRA"},{"href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2017-1410.html","label":"Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)","kind":"regulation","words":"EU"},{"href":"/perfumery/event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban.html","label":"HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019","kind":"event"}],"parts":{"bergamot-essential-oil":20,"lavender-essential-oil":35,"named-geranium-oil-no-material-record-yet":15,"coumarin":30},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v3","label":"Without coumarin","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"house teaching example","why":{"e":"house interpretation","s":[{"t":"Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252"}],"q":"In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant","c":"C","n":"the review names the materials; taking coumarin out is the house’s teaching choice, and the version is not a reconstruction of any perfume","v":"A house teaching example: the skeleton without coumarin, one of the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, to show what the family’s sweet hay rests on. Perkin’s synthesis of coumarin is linked for context."},"links":[{"href":"/perfumery/event/perkin-coumarin-1868.html","label":"Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868","kind":"event"}],"parts":{"bergamot-essential-oil":25,"lavender-essential-oil":40,"named-geranium-oil-no-material-record-yet":20,"oakmoss-absolute":15},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}}]}