{"license":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","about":"The input of the Perfume Autopsy for a teaching accord: its teaching variants (each labelled \"teaching variant, modeled\") and their components, read from the records named in each field. The model reuses the Causal Debugger’s model; everything it computes is modeled. Not a commercial perfume formula and not any real perfume’s formula.","accord":"woody-ambery-teaching-accord","name":"A woody-ambery","version":2,"updated":"2026-09-30","disclaimer":"A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.","href":"/perfumery/accord/woody-ambery-teaching-accord.html","halfLife":{"top":1.5,"heart":6,"base":12,"ev":{"e":"modeled","n":"the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”"}},"components":[{"key":"iso-e-super","id":"iso-e-super","type":"molecule","name":"Iso E Super","href":"/perfumery/molecule/iso-e-super.html","onRecord":true,"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for iso-e-super"},"desc":["woody","floral","ambergris","violet","lemony"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252"}],"q":"Iso E Super® (33) | 59056-94-9 | woody, floral, ambergris, violet, old-wood, lemony (500 ng L−1)","c":"A","n":"the descriptors of Table 1 of the review for rac-33","v":"woody, floral, ambergris, violet, old-wood, lemony"},"mols":[{"id":"iso-e-super","name":"Iso E Super"}],"molsNote":null,"thr":null,"thrNote":"no odour-threshold source on record","regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes 54464-57-2/","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"Iso E Super, 1972 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/iso-e-super-1972.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252"}],"q":"Iso E Super® (33) (1972, odour threshold: 500 ng L−1)","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; no price is filed for molecules"}}]},{"key":"sandalwood-oil","id":"sandalwood-oil","type":"material","name":"sandalwood oil","href":"/perfumery/material/sandalwood-oil.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for sandalwood-oil"},"desc":["creamy","milky","sweet"],"descEv":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"the house essay’s words; no descriptor source is filed","v":"creamy, milky, sweet"},"mols":[{"id":"alpha-santalol","name":"α-santalol","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053"}],"q":"Four sesquiterpenols, α-, β-, and epi-β-santalol and α-exo-bergamotol, make up approximately 90% of the oil of Santalum album.","c":"B","n":"with β- and epi-β-santalol and α-exo-bergamotol, about 90 % of the oil together (not shown); the page calls α-santalol the main constituent: the trade’s convention, no filed source ranks it"}},{"id":"beta-santalol","name":"β-santalol","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053"}],"q":"Four sesquiterpenols, α-, β-, and epi-β-santalol and α-exo-bergamotol, make up approximately 90% of the oil of Santalum album.","c":"B","n":"named with α-santalol as the most important contributors to the fragrance"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"367 Santalum album oil (*4) Santalum Album Oil 8006-87-9/","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"from Santalum album L.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/santalum-album.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053"}],"q":"Four sesquiterpenols, α-, β-, and epi-β-santalol and α-exo-bergamotol, make up approximately 90% of the oil of Santalum album.","c":"A"}},{"t":"grown in Mysore","href":"/perfumery/origin/mysore-in.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Kirdat et al. (2022). Nested Real-Time PCR Assessment of Vertical Transmission of Sandalwood Spike Phytoplasma (‘Ca","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11101494"}],"q":"At present, reasonably healthy populations of sandalwood are available in Marayoor Sandalwood Reserve (MSR), Chamundi Hills, and Bannerghatta in Karnataka state.","c":"B","n":"Karnataka: Chamundi Hills and Bannerghatta. That Chamundi Hills stands at Mysuru is general geography, not the source’s words; the page’s “Mysore sandalwood” is the trade’s name"}},{"t":"The sandalwood act amended in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, 2001 and 2002 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/sandalwood-act-2001.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Fatima et al. (2022). Comparative transcriptome profiling of high and low oil yielding Santalum album L.","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0252173"}],"q":"Realizing the sharp decline in the sandalwood population, the Karnataka and Tamil Nadu Forest department amended the sandalwood act in 2001 and 2002 and declared the private sandalwood growers himself an owner of the sandalwood as per the amended Act.","c":"A"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log; the claims register)"}}]},{"key":"vetiver-oil","id":"vetiver-oil","type":"material","name":"vetiver oil","href":"/perfumery/material/vetiver-oil.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for vetiver-oil"},"desc":["smoky","rooty"],"descEv":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"the house essay’s words; no descriptor source is filed","v":"smoky, rooty"},"mols":[{"id":"khusimol","name":"khusimol","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Barcellos-Silva et al. (2025). Vetiver, Vetiveria zizanioides (L.) Nash: Biotechnology, Biorefineries, and the Production of Volatile Phytochemicals","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/plants14101435"}],"q":"VEO presents high concentrations of sesquiterpene alcohol content, and the most concentrated alcoholic molecules found within VEO are khusimol, isovalenenol, and vetiselinenol (Figure 1).","c":"B","n":"among the most concentrated alcohols of the oil, and in Haitian oil among the metabolites responsible for its odour (GC-10)"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":[],"regEv":{"n":"no Regulation record yet"},"prov":[{"t":"from Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty","href":"/perfumery/botanical/chrysopogon-zizanioides.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Ouyang et al. (2021). The Smelling Principle of Vetiver Oil, Unveiled by Chemical Synthesis","h":"https://doi.org/10.1002/anie.202014609"}],"q":"The essential oil of vetiver is obtained in 0.2–0.3 % yield by hydrodistillation of the dried roots of the tufted perennial grass Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty.","c":"A"}},{"t":"grown in Haiti","href":"/perfumery/origin/haiti-ht.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Burger et al. (2017). Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/medicines4020041"}],"q":"Haiti is the world’s first exporter of vetiver and more than 50,000 families are totally and directly dependent on this resource for their living [15].","c":"B","n":"the world’s first exporter (a sentence cited to a news article)"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; GC-11’s price is not used (the decisions log)"}}]},{"key":"alpha-santalol","id":"alpha-santalol","type":"molecule","name":"α-santalol","href":"/perfumery/molecule/alpha-santalol.html","onRecord":true,"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"inferred","c":"C","n":"takes the place, and so the role, of sandalwood oil (the substitution)"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record"},"desc":[],"descEv":{"n":"no descriptor on record: no house wording on a data file, no descriptor source filed"},"mols":[{"id":"alpha-santalol","name":"α-santalol"}],"molsNote":null,"thr":null,"thrNote":"no odour-threshold measurement with its method is filed: OT-1 has no santalol entry, and the open-access structure-odour study of α-santalol derivatives (Hasegawa et al. 2012, PMC6268821) reports none","regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Santalol 11031-45-1/","c":"A","n":"a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)"},"prov":[{"t":"occurs in sandalwood oil","href":"/perfumery/material/sandalwood-oil.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053"}],"q":"Four sesquiterpenols, α-, β-, and epi-β-santalol and α-exo-bergamotol, make up approximately 90% of the oil of Santalum album.","c":"B","n":"one of the four sesquiterpenols; with β-santalol “the most important contributors to sandalwood oil fragrance” (GC-7)"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; no price is filed for molecules"}}]}],"regs":{"eu-2023-1545":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2023-1545.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Therefore, an obligation to individually label those fragrance allergens should be introduced in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 when their concentration exceeds 0,001 % in leave-on products and 0,01 % in rinse-off products.","c":"A"}}},"variants":[{"id":"v1","label":"The woody-ambery as written","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"the record as written","why":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention)","v":"The woody-ambery as the record writes it: Iso E Super over sandalwood oil and vetiver oil."},"links":[],"parts":{"iso-e-super":55,"sandalwood-oil":25,"vetiver-oil":20},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v2","label":"α-Santalol for sandalwood oil","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"substitution on record","why":{"e":"inferred","s":[{"t":"Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol","h":"https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053"}],"q":"The α- and β-santalols are the most important contributors to sandalwood oil fragrance [3]–[5].","c":"B","n":"inferred from the study; α-santalol takes the place, and so the base role, of the oil","v":"The record’s own substitution: α-santalol in place of sandalwood oil; with β-santalol, the main contributor to its scent. One molecule is not the oil."},"links":[],"parts":{"iso-e-super":55,"alpha-santalol":25,"vetiver-oil":20},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}},{"id":"v3","label":"More Iso E Super","kind":"teaching variant, modeled","basis":"house teaching example","why":{"e":"house interpretation","c":"C","n":"a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume","v":"A house teaching example: the synthetic carrying more of the accord and the natural woods less, to show their words thinning. The Iso E Super event on record is linked for context."},"links":[{"href":"/perfumery/event/iso-e-super-1972.html","label":"Iso E Super, 1972","kind":"event"}],"parts":{"iso-e-super":75,"sandalwood-oil":15,"vetiver-oil":10},"grades":{},"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"}}]}