{"license":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","about":"The input of the Olfactory Causal Debugger for a teaching accord, read from the records named in each field; the model is /sections/causal-model.mjs (formulas in its header). Everything the model computes from it is modeled.","accord":"chypre-teaching-accord","name":"The chypre skeleton","version":2,"updated":"2026-09-30","disclaimer":"A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.","href":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html","halfLife":{"top":1.5,"heart":6,"base":12,"ev":{"e":"modeled","n":"the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”"}},"components":[{"key":"bergamot-essential-oil","id":"bergamot-essential-oil","type":"material","name":"bergamot essential oil","href":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html","onRecord":true,"parts":50,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"role":"top","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"desc":["fresh","citrus"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"odore: caratteristico, gradevole, fresco, richiamante quello del pericarpo del Bergamotto;","c":"A","n":"the specification’s odour line, in English; colour “da verde a giallo verdastro”, green to greenish yellow (PDO-1)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"},"v":"characteristic, pleasant, fresh, recalling the bergamot’s peel"},"mols":[{"id":"limonene","name":"Limonene","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}},{"id":"linalyl-acetate","name":"linalyl acetate","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}},{"id":"linalool","name":"linalool","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}},{"id":"bergapten","name":"Bergapten","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application","h":"https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036"}],"q":"The non-volatile fraction (4–7% of total) contains pigments, waxes, coumarins, and psoralens (such as 5-methoxypsoralen, also known as bergapten or 5-MOP, contained in about 0.2%), as well as bergamottine [5-geranyloxypsoralen]) (Dugo et al., 2000).","c":"B","n":"a psoralen of the oil’s non-volatile fraction (5-methoxypsoralen); cited there to Dugo et al. 2000","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed","ifra-citrus-furocoumarins","eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf"},{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_089.pdf"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"CAS-No.: 8007-75-8 89957-91-5","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}},"prov":[{"t":"from Citrus bergamia Risso","href":"/perfumery/botanical/citrus-bergamia.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"La denominazione di origine protetta \" Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\" è riservata esclusivamente all'olio essenziale estratto con il metodo cold pressed dal frutto Citrus Bergamia Risso nelle varietà Femminello, Castagnaro e Fantastico, prodotti negli impianti iscritti nel corrispondente albo dei bergamotteti che sarà tenuto presso l'organismo di controllo.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}},{"t":"grown in Calabria","href":"/perfumery/origin/calabria-it.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian…","h":"https://www.masaf.gov.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeAttachment.php/L/IT/D/1%252Fd%252F7%252FD.972819c34ccef68dba39/P/BLOB%3AID%3D4708/E/pdf?mode=download"}],"q":"La zona di produzione della denominazione di origine protetta \"Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\", comprende l'area vogata della provincia di Regione Calabria, comprendente i seguenti comuni: Scilla, Villa San Giovanni, Campo Calabro, Fiumara","c":"A","n":"the PDO zone: comuni of the province of Reggio Calabria","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/botanical/citrus-bergamia.html"}}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/bergamot-essential-oil.html"}}}]},{"key":"labdanum-absolute","id":"labdanum-absolute","type":"material","name":"labdanum absolute","href":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html","onRecord":true,"parts":30,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","s":[{"t":"Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery","h":"https://doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76"}],"q":"Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume","c":"B","n":"the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"desc":["balsamic","amber"],"descEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s words; LAB-1 documents its use for \"its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris\", not these words","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html"},"v":"balsamic, amber"},"mols":[],"molsNote":"no constituent molecule on record","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":[],"regEv":{"n":"no Regulation record names it","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html"}},"prov":[{"t":"from Cistus ladanifer L.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/cistus-ladanifer.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Gago C, Bakchiche B, Djekhioua T, da Graça Miguel M","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30224425"}],"q":"Raw gum labdanum is a resin extracted from the photosynthetic leaves and stems of","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html"}}},{"t":"no origin on record for Cistus ladanifer L.","ev":{"e":null,"n":"the botanical record names no Origin record"}},{"t":"A resin in a Carthaginian tomb, identified as labdanum (6th–5th century BC) (probable)","href":"/perfumery/event/carthage-labdanum-sample.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Gago C, Bakchiche B, Djekhioua T, da Graça Miguel M","h":"https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30224425"}],"q":"A resinous archeological sample from a tomb in Carthago (6th–5th century BC), housed in the Fragonard Museum (Grasse, France), was identified as labdanum, resin of the Cistus species, although no direct documentation supported this identification","c":"B","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/event/carthage-labdanum-sample.html"}}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/labdanum-absolute.html"}}}]},{"key":"oakmoss-absolute","id":"oakmoss-absolute","type":"material","name":"oakmoss absolute","href":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html","onRecord":true,"parts":20,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"desc":["mossy"],"descEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"},"v":"mossy"},"mols":[{"id":"atranol","name":"2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"}}},{"id":"chloroatranol","name":"3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"}}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-oakmoss-extracts","eu-2009-1223","eu-2017-1410"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"},{"t":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"CAS-No.: 90028-68-5 68917-10-2 9000-50-4","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"}},"prov":[{"t":"from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.","href":"/perfumery/botanical/evernia-prunastri.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"}}},{"t":"no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.","ev":{"e":null,"n":"the botanical record names no Origin record"}},{"t":"HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)","href":"/perfumery/event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban.html"}}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/material/oakmoss-absolute.html"}}}]}],"extra":[],"subs":[],"notes":[{"for":"oakmoss-absolute","forName":"oakmoss absolute","text":"An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.","ev":{"e":"inferred","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"},{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.","c":"B","n":"inferred from the standard and the regulation; no filed source names a commercial substitute","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.html"}},"why":"the record names no substitute record, so the chain is not computed"}],"regs":{"eu-2009-1223":{"name":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition (Annex III): named in the list of ingredients above a stated concentration; and prohibitions (Annex II)","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2009-1223.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj"}],"q":"The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients referred to in Article 19(1)(g) when its concentration exceeds: ,  0,001 % in leave-on products ,  0,01 % in rinse-off products","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2009-1223.html"}}},"eu-2017-1410":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)","body":"EU","kind":"a prohibition (Annex II)","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2017-1410.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj"}],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2017-1410.html"}}},"eu-2023-1545":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens","href":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2023-1545.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","h":"https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj"}],"q":"Therefore, an obligation to individually label those fragrance allergens should be introduced in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 when their concentration exceeds 0,001 % in leave-on products and 0,01 % in rinse-off products.","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/eu-2023-1545.html"}}},"ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed.html"}}},"ifra-citrus-furocoumarins":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-citrus-furocoumarins.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_089.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-citrus-furocoumarins.html"}}},"ifra-oakmoss-extracts":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","href":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts.html","ev":{"e":"documented","s":[{"t":"International Fragrance Association (IFRA)","h":"https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf"}],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","c":"A","r":{"t":"the record","h":"/perfumery/regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts.html"}}}}}