An amber (the perfumer’s, not the resin) · the worked cases
Worked out when the page was built
The HTML equivalents of the accord’s two tools, for reading without JavaScript. Back to An amber (the perfumer’s, not the resin).
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double labdanum absolute (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 45 → 90 parts (45.0 → 62.1 per 100); the others ×0.69.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute rises, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 45.0 → 62.1, “sweet” 35.0 → 24.1, “vanilla” 35.0 → 24.1, “balsamic” 65.0 → 75.9.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and less “sweet” and “vanilla”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 13.8 / 86.2; half gone at 10 h → 11 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “amber” go from 45.0 to 62.1 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 86.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 11 h instead of 10 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Remove labdanum absolute
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 45 → 0 parts (45.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.82.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute leaves, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 45.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 35.0 → 63.6, “vanilla” 35.0 → 63.6, “balsamic” 65.0 → 36.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “sweet” and “vanilla”, less “balsamic” and no “amber” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 36.4 / 63.6; half gone at 10 h → 9.2 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- labdanum absolute carried “amber” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- Components carrying “sweet” go from 35.0 to 63.6 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 63.6 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 9.2 h instead of 10 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Double vanillin (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- vanillin 35 → 70 parts (35.0 → 51.9 per 100); the others ×0.74.
- 2 · Molecules
- vanillin itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “balsamic” 65.0 → 48.1, “sweet” 35.0 → 51.9, “vanilla” 35.0 → 51.9, “amber” 45.0 → 33.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “sweet” and “vanilla” and less “balsamic” and “amber”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 14.8 / 85.2; half gone at 10 h → 11 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vanillin (53 µg/kg in water, measured): ×1.48.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “balsamic” go from 65.0 to 48.1 per 100 parts, because vanillin, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 85.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 11 h instead of 10 h (vanillin is base, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove vanillin
- 1 · Composition
- vanillin 35 → 0 parts (35.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.54.
- 2 · Molecules
- vanillin itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “balsamic” 65.0 → 100.0, “sweet” 35.0 → 0.0, “vanilla” 35.0 → 0.0, “amber” 45.0 → 69.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “balsamic” and “amber” and no “sweet” and “vanilla” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 30.8 / 69.2; half gone at 10 h → 9.6 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vanillin (53 µg/kg in water, measured): ×0.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens).
- Why did this change matter?
- It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)” flag (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) off the accord: it names vanillin and no other component.
- vanillin carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- vanillin carried “vanilla” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double frankincense (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- frankincense 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with frankincense rise incensole acetate (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “lemony” 20.0 → 33.3, “piney” 20.0 → 33.3, “amber” 45.0 → 37.5, “sweet” 35.0 → 29.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “lemony” and “piney” and less “amber” and “sweet”, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 33.3 / 66.7; half gone at 10 h → 9.4 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- frankincense: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 9.4 h instead of 10 h (frankincense is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “lemony” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because frankincense carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove frankincense
- 1 · Composition
- frankincense 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with frankincense leave incensole acetate (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “lemony” 20.0 → 0.0, “piney” 20.0 → 0.0, “amber” 45.0 → 56.3, “balsamic” 65.0 → 56.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “sweet”, less “balsamic” and no “lemony” and “piney” left, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 0.0 / 100.0; half gone at 10 h → 12 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- frankincense: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- frankincense carried “lemony” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- frankincense carried “piney” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 20.0 to 0.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 12 h instead of 10 h (frankincense is heart, from its role in the accord).
Version 1 against version 2
Modeled · A → B
A · Version 1 · The amber as written → B · Version 2 · Vanillin-forward
1 · What changedmodeled
- labdanum absolute: 45 → 30 parts (45.0 → 30.0 per 100)
- vanillin: 35 → 55 parts (35.0 → 55.0 per 100)
- frankincense: 20 → 15 parts (20.0 → 15.0 per 100)
teaching parts · modeled
a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement
teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · teaching parts
confidence C
2 · Molecules
labdanum absolute falls; no constituent molecule is on record for it; vanillin itself rises; frankincense falls, with the molecules its record names: incensole acetate (no shares on record).
3 · Odour spacemodeled
“sweet” 35.0 → 55.0, “vanilla” 35.0 → 55.0, “balsamic” 65.0 → 45.0, “amber” 45.0 → 30.0, “lemony” 20.0 → 15.0 per 100 parts (the share of the accord whose components carry the word).
labdanum absolute: descriptors · perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s words; LAB-1 documents its use for "its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris", not these words
field: the labdanum absolute record · descriptors
confidence B
vanillin: descriptors · documented
4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin) | CAS 121-33-5 | Odor quality: vanilla-like, sweet
Kreissl et al. (2022). Leibniz-LSB@TUM Odorant Database, Version 1.2 · listed on the record
field: the vanillin record · descriptors
confidence A
frankincense: descriptors · house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house essay’s words; no descriptor source is filed
field: the frankincense record · descriptors
confidence C
“sweet” · “vanilla” · “balsamic” · “amber” · “lemony”
4 · A modeled readingmodeled
B against A. A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “sweet” and “vanilla” and less “balsamic” and “amber”, with more of it in the base.
Generated from the movements above: a modeled reading, not a prediction and not a smell.
5 · Dry-downmodeled
Top / heart / base: 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 in A → 0.0 / 15.0 / 85.0 in B, per 100 parts; half the accord gone at 10 h → 11 h (modeled half-lives: top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h).
half-lives · modeled
a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement
the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”
labdanum absolute: role · perfumery convention
Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume
Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · listed on the record
the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention
field: this accord’s record · role
confidence B
6 · Odour activitymodeled
no measured threshold on record for labdanum absolute and frankincense. Thresholds from different media or units are never compared; a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord.
vanillin: 53 µg/kg in water · measured
Kreissl et al. (2022). Leibniz-LSB@TUM Odorant Database, Version 1.2 · listed on the record
the retronasal threshold in the same study is 210 µg/kg (OT-1)
field: the vanillin record · threshold
confidence A
7 · Regulation flags
- Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · EU law · a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens · in both
A flag follows presence, not dose: a smaller dose keeps the flag (several IFRA Standards on record restrict by concentration in finished products), and a teaching accord is neither a finished product nor assessed. US law: not on record. Not legal advice.
8 · Provenance
The same materials in both, so the provenance does not change. No price: nothing on this site is for sale.
Why could it smell different?
- Components carrying “sweet” go from 35.0 to 55.0 per 100 parts, because vanillin carries it and moves.
documented
4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin) | CAS 121-33-5 | Odor quality: vanilla-like, sweet
Kreissl et al. (2022). Leibniz-LSB@TUM Odorant Database, Version 1.2 · listed on the record
field: the vanillin record · descriptors
confidence A
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 85.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 11 h in B against 10 h in A (vanillin is base, from its volatility class, modeled).
modeled
a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement
the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the house’s volatility table is a set of site constants, not measurements)
field: this accord’s record · volatility
confidence C
The top causes in the model, each with the record field it rests on. Modeled, not measured; not a prediction of how anything smells.
teaching accord only: not a commercial perfume formula, not for skin · the record
