HombreOilsRare perfumery, preserved

The chypre skeleton · the worked cases

Worked out when the page was built

The HTML equivalents of the accord’s two tools, for reading without JavaScript. Back to The chypre skeleton.

What happens if… every single change, worked out

The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.

Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 50 → 100 parts (50.0 → 66.7 per 100); the others ×0.67.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 50.0 → 66.7, “fresh” 50.0 → 66.7, “amber” 30.0 → 20.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 20.0.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “amber” and “balsamic”, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 66.7 / 0.0 / 33.3; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 50.0 to 66.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.5 h instead of 3.6 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 50.0 to 66.7 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove bergamot essential oil
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 50 → 0 parts (50.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×2.00.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 50.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 50.0 → 0.0, “amber” 30.0 → 60.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 60.0.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and no “citrus” and “fresh” left, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 0.0 / 0.0 / 100.0; half gone at 3.6 h → 12 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens); IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 50.0 to 0.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 12 h instead of 3.6 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
  2. It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)” flag (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
  3. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
Double labdanum absolute (×2)
1 · Composition
labdanum absolute 30 → 60 parts (30.0 → 46.2 per 100); the others ×0.77.
2 · Molecules
labdanum absolute rises, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
3 · Odour space
“amber” 30.0 → 46.2, “balsamic” 30.0 → 46.2, “citrus” 50.0 → 38.5, “fresh” 50.0 → 38.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 38.5 / 0.0 / 61.5; half gone at 3.6 h → 5.0 h.
6 · Odour activity
labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 61.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.0 h instead of 3.6 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “amber” go from 30.0 to 46.2 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove labdanum absolute
1 · Composition
labdanum absolute 30 → 0 parts (30.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.43.
2 · Molecules
labdanum absolute leaves, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
3 · Odour space
“amber” 30.0 → 0.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 50.0 → 71.4, “fresh” 50.0 → 71.4.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “amber” and “balsamic” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 71.4 / 0.0 / 28.6; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.3 h.
6 · Odour activity
labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. labdanum absolute carried “amber” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
  2. labdanum absolute carried “balsamic” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
  3. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 28.6 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.3 h instead of 3.6 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Double oakmoss absolute (×2)
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute rise 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 20.0 → 33.3, “citrus” 50.0 → 41.7, “fresh” 50.0 → 41.7, “amber” 30.0 → 25.0.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “mossy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 41.7 / 0.0 / 58.3; half gone at 3.6 h → 4.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 58.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 4.5 h instead of 3.6 h (oakmoss absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “mossy” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because oakmoss absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove oakmoss absolute
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute leave 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 20.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 50.0 → 62.5, “fresh” 50.0 → 62.5, “amber” 30.0 → 37.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “mossy” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 62.5 / 0.0 / 37.5; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.7 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products; Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited); IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products” flag (a labelling condition (Annex III)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  2. It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)” flag (a prohibition (Annex II)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  3. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts” flag (restriction / specification) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.

Version 1 against version 2

Modeled · A → B

A · Version 1 · Classic oakmoss → B · Version 2 · Less oakmoss, low in atranol

1 · What changedmodeled

  • bergamot essential oil: the same 50 parts (50.0 → 50.0 per 100)
  • labdanum absolute: 30 → 38 parts (30.0 → 38.0 per 100)
  • oakmoss absolute: 20 → 12 parts (20.0 → 12.0 per 100); grade in B: an oakmoss extract with atranol and chloroatranol each below the level the IFRA specification states
teaching parts · modeled

a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement

teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · teaching parts

confidence C

oakmoss absolute: grade · inferred

Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record

inferred from the standard and the EU regulation; no record holds such an extract separately, so the model reads the same oakmoss record for it

field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · grade

confidence B

2 · Molecules

labdanum absolute rises; no constituent molecule is on record for it; oakmoss absolute falls, with the molecules its record names: atranol and chloroatranol (no shares on record).

2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde · 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde

3 · Odour spacemodeled

“amber” 30.0 → 38.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 38.0, “mossy” 20.0 → 12.0 per 100 parts (the share of the accord whose components carry the word).

labdanum absolute: descriptors · perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s words; LAB-1 documents its use for "its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris", not these words

field: the labdanum absolute record · descriptors

confidence B

oakmoss absolute: descriptors · perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell

field: the oakmoss absolute record · descriptors

confidence B

“amber” · “balsamic” · “mossy” · “citrus” · “fresh”

4 · A modeled readingmodeled

B against A. A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and less “mossy”.

Generated from the movements above: a modeled reading, not a prediction and not a smell.

5 · Dry-downmodeled

Top / heart / base: 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 in A → 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 in B, per 100 parts; half the accord gone at 3.6 h → 3.6 h (modeled half-lives: top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h).

half-lives · modeled

a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement

the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”

labdanum absolute: role · perfumery convention

Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume

Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · listed on the record

the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention

field: this accord’s record · role

confidence B

6 · Odour activitymodeled

no measured threshold on record for bergamot essential oil, labdanum absolute and oakmoss absolute. Thresholds from different media or units are never compared; a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord.

7 · Regulation flags

A flag follows presence, not dose: a smaller dose keeps the flag (several IFRA Standards on record restrict by concentration in finished products), and a teaching accord is neither a finished product nor assessed. US law: not on record. Not legal advice.

8 · Provenance

The same materials in both, so the provenance does not change. No price: nothing on this site is for sale.

Why could it smell different?
  1. oakmoss absolute changes grade in B: an oakmoss extract with atranol and chloroatranol each below the level the IFRA specification states. The model reads the same record for both grades, so its words and flags do not move here: the difference is in the material itself, and no record measures it.
    inferred

    Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

    International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record

    inferred from the standard and the EU regulation; no record holds such an extract separately, so the model reads the same oakmoss record for it

    field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · grade

    confidence B

  2. Components carrying “amber” go from 30.0 to 38.0 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute carries it and moves.
    perfumery convention

    the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

    the trade’s words; LAB-1 documents its use for "its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris", not these words

    field: the labdanum absolute record · descriptors

    confidence B

The top causes in the model, each with the record field it rests on. Modeled, not measured; not a prediction of how anything smells.

teaching accord only: not a commercial perfume formula, not for skin · the record