HombreOilsRare perfumery, preserved

The fougère skeleton · the worked cases

Worked out when the page was built

The HTML equivalents of the accord’s two tools, for reading without JavaScript. Back to The fougère skeleton.

What happens if… every single change, worked out

The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.

Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 33.3, “fresh” 20.0 → 33.3, “hay” 20.0 → 16.7, “spicy” 20.0 → 16.7; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 37.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “hay” and “spicy”, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 33.3 / 37.5 / 29.2; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.3 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 4.3 h instead of 5.7 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove bergamot essential oil
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 20.0 → 0.0, “hay” 20.0 → 25.0, “spicy” 20.0 → 25.0; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 56.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “hay” and “spicy” and no “citrus” and “fresh” left, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 0.0 / 56.3 / 43.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 8.0 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
  2. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
  3. bergamot essential oil carried “citrus” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double lavender essential oil (×2)
1 · Composition
lavender essential oil 30 → 60 parts (30.0 → 46.2 per 100); the others ×0.77.
2 · Molecules
with lavender essential oil rise linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 15.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 15.4, “hay” 20.0 → 15.4, “spicy” 20.0 → 15.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 57.7.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 15.4 / 57.7 / 26.9; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.8 h.
6 · Odour activity
lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 57.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.8 h instead of 5.7 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 15.4 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove lavender essential oil
1 · Composition
lavender essential oil 30 → 0 parts (30.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.43.
2 · Molecules
with lavender essential oil leave linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 28.6, “fresh” 20.0 → 28.6, “hay” 20.0 → 28.6, “spicy” 20.0 → 28.6; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 21.4.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 28.6 / 21.4 / 50.0; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 21.4 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.5 h instead of 5.7 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 28.6 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Double geranium oil (×2)
1 · Composition
geranium oil 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
2 · Molecules
geranium oil rises, and it has no record.
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 17.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 17.4, “hay” 20.0 → 17.4, “spicy” 20.0 → 17.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 52.2.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 17.4 / 52.2 / 30.4; half gone at 5.7 h (unchanged).
6 · Odour activity
geranium oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 52.2 per 100 parts (geranium oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 17.4 per 100 parts, because geranium oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove geranium oil
1 · Composition
geranium oil 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
2 · Molecules
geranium oil leaves, and it has no record.
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 23.5, “fresh” 20.0 → 23.5, “hay” 20.0 → 23.5, “spicy” 20.0 → 23.5; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 35.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 23.5 / 35.3 / 41.2; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.6 h.
6 · Odour activity
geranium oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 35.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.6 h instead of 5.7 h (geranium oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 23.5 per 100 parts, because geranium oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Double coumarin (×2)
1 · Composition
coumarin 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
2 · Molecules
coumarin itself rises.
3 · Odour space
“hay” 20.0 → 33.3, “spicy” 20.0 → 33.3, “sweet” 20.0 → 33.3, “citrus” 20.0 → 16.7; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 37.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “hay” and “spicy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 16.7 / 37.5 / 45.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 6.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
coumarin: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 35.0 to 45.8 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 6.5 h instead of 5.7 h (coumarin is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “hay” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because coumarin carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove coumarin
1 · Composition
coumarin 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
2 · Molecules
coumarin itself leaves.
3 · Odour space
“hay” 20.0 → 0.0, “spicy” 20.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 20.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 20.0 → 25.0; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 56.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “hay”, “spicy” and “sweet” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 25.0 / 56.3 / 18.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.7 h.
6 · Odour activity
coumarin: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Coumarin.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Coumarin” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names coumarin and no other component.
  2. coumarin carried “hay” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
  3. coumarin carried “spicy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double oakmoss absolute (×2)
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute rise 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 15.0 → 26.1, “citrus” 20.0 → 17.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 17.4, “hay” 20.0 → 17.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 39.1.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “mossy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 17.4 / 39.1 / 43.5; half gone at 5.7 h → 6.3 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 35.0 to 43.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 6.3 h instead of 5.7 h (oakmoss absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “mossy” go from 15.0 to 26.1 per 100 parts, because oakmoss absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove oakmoss absolute
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute leave 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 15.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 20.0 → 23.5, “fresh” 20.0 → 23.5, “hay” 20.0 → 23.5; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 52.9.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “mossy” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 23.5 / 52.9 / 23.5; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.9 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited); IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)” flag (a prohibition (Annex II)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  2. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts” flag (restriction / specification) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  3. oakmoss absolute carried “mossy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.

Version 1 against version 2

Modeled · A → B

A · Version 1 · The skeleton as written → B · Version 2 · Without oakmoss

1 · What changedmodeled

  • bergamot essential oil: the same 20 parts (20.0 → 20.0 per 100)
  • lavender essential oil: 30 → 35 parts (30.0 → 35.0 per 100)
  • geranium oil: the same 15 parts (15.0 → 15.0 per 100)
  • coumarin: 20 → 30 parts (20.0 → 30.0 per 100)
  • oakmoss absolute: removed in B (A: 15 parts, 15.0 per 100)
teaching parts · modeled

a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement

teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · teaching parts

confidence C

2 · Molecules

lavender essential oil rises, with the molecules its record names: linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record); coumarin itself rises; oakmoss absolute leaves, with the molecules its record names: atranol and chloroatranol (no shares on record).

linalool · linalyl acetate · α-terpineol · Coumarin · 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde · 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde

3 · Odour spacemodeled

“mossy” 15.0 → 0.0, “hay” 20.0 → 30.0, “spicy” 20.0 → 30.0, “sweet” 20.0 → 30.0 per 100 parts (the share of the accord whose components carry the word); no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 50.0.

lavender essential oil: no descriptor on record
coumarin: descriptors · documented

Coumarin (46) has a sweet, slightly spicy, and hay-like scent

Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · listed on the record

field: the coumarin record · descriptors

confidence A

oakmoss absolute: descriptors · perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell

field: the oakmoss absolute record · descriptors

confidence B

“mossy” · “hay” · “spicy” · “sweet” · “citrus”

4 · A modeled readingmodeled

B against A. A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “hay” and “spicy” and no “mossy” left, with less of it in the base.

Generated from the movements above: a modeled reading, not a prediction and not a smell.

5 · Dry-downmodeled

Top / heart / base: 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 in A → 20.0 / 50.0 / 30.0 in B, per 100 parts; half the accord gone at 5.7 h → 5.5 h (modeled half-lives: top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h).

half-lives · modeled

a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement

the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”

lavender essential oil: role · documented

Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes

Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · listed on the record

the review names lavender among the floral heart notes

field: this accord’s record · role

confidence A

6 · Odour activitymodeled

no measured threshold on record for bergamot essential oil, lavender essential oil, geranium oil, coumarin and oakmoss absolute. Thresholds from different media or units are never compared; a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord.

7 · Regulation flags

A flag follows presence, not dose: a smaller dose keeps the flag (several IFRA Standards on record restrict by concentration in finished products), and a teaching accord is neither a finished product nor assessed. US law: not on record. Not legal advice.

8 · Provenance

No price: nothing on this site is for sale.

Why could it smell different?
  1. B drops two flags that come with oakmoss absolute, which B leaves out (EU law · a prohibition (Annex II); IFRA: an industry standard, not law · restriction / specification).
    documented

    CAS-No.: 90028-68-5 68917-10-2 9000-50-4

    International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products…; Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record

    a house review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not legal advice)

    field: the oakmoss absolute record · regulation

    confidence A

  2. “mossy” leaves the modeled profile: oakmoss absolute carried it, and nothing in B does on record.
    perfumery convention

    the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

    the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell

    field: the oakmoss absolute record · descriptors

    confidence B

  3. lavender essential oil carries no descriptor on record, so the modeled words cannot show its part of the change: it is not on record, which is not the same as nothing.
    evidence

    no evidence on record

    no descriptor on record for the oil; the essay’s “refined, slightly sweet” is given to linalyl acetate

    field: the lavender essential oil record · descriptors

The top causes in the model, each with the record field it rests on. Modeled, not measured; not a prediction of how anything smells.

teaching accord only: not a commercial perfume formula, not for skin · the record