A muguet (lily of the valley), and what regulation took from it

Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.

Two of its classic materials are now prohibited in EU cosmetics. Remove them and see what the heart loses; the substitutions show the usual response.

Read the essay · Its fingerprint in the Olfactory Genome · Its trail in the Spatial Sillage Lab · As a scent instruction (the Device API draft)

The record

Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.

Name

A muguet (lily of the valley), and what regulation took from it

house interpretation

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the house’s name for this teaching accord

confidence C

Purpose

teaching

house rule

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas are never published here

confidence B

Structure

A muguet built from aldehydes and alcohols: the flower gives no oil, so the note is composed from synthetic materials.

perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s convention; the Osmothèque classes Diorissimo (1956) as a muguet soliflore ("Solinote Muguet"). Two of the classic materials are now prohibited in EU cosmetics (p-BMHCA, HICC): the accord keeps them to teach the change

confidence B

Family

floral (the Osmothèque’s "Solinote Muguet")

perfumery convention

Diorissimo DIOR 1956 EDT Floral Solinote Muguet Edmond Roudnitska

OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30

the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure

confidence B

Components

Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula.

Component	Role	Teaching parts	Volatility
Hydroxycitronellal perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s convention; no odour description is filed for it confidence B	heart perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	40 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for hydroxycitronellal
Butylphenyl methylpropional documented Lysmeral (2-(4-tert-butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde) is a synthetically produced aliphatic-aromatic aldehyde reminiscent of the smell of lily of the valley. LIL-1 · Fichter SC, Groth K, Fiedler N, Kolossa-Gehring M, Dębiak M, on behalf of the INGER Study Group · read 2026-09-30 prohibited in EU cosmetic products since 1 March 2022 (eu-2021-1902) confidence A	heart perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	20 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for p-bmhca
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source prohibited in EU cosmetic products (eu-2017-1410); kept here to teach what was lost confidence C	heart perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	5 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for hicc
2-phenylethyl alcohol perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s convention confidence B	heart documented Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes KLE-1 · Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · read 2026-09-30 the review names rose among the floral heart notes confidence A	20 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for phenylethyl-alcohol
Linalool perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s convention confidence B	top perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	15 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	top modeled modeled the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the house’s volatility table is a set of site constants, not measurements) confidence C

Substitutions

• For butylphenyl methylpropional (p-BMHCA, Lilial): After the EU prohibition of p-BMHCA, more of the other muguet materials: here, hydroxycitronellal. (Hydroxycitronellal)
  perfumery convention

  the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

  the house’s teaching move; no filed source documents a specific replacement, and hydroxycitronellal is itself restricted by IFRA

  confidence C

• For hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC): After the EU prohibition of HICC, the same move. (Hydroxycitronellal)
  perfumery convention

  the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

  as above

  confidence C

Regulations that apply to a component

• IFRA Standard: p-tert-Butyl-α-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde (p-BMHCA)
• IFRA Standard: Hydroxycitronellal
• IFRA Standard: 3 and 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde (HMPCC)
• Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
• Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)
• Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 (substances classified CMR, butylphenyl methylpropional among them)

Odour descriptors

• lily
• floral
• honey
• sharp
• medicinal

In history

• The launch of Diorissimo: Dior, 1956
• Butylphenyl methylpropional prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2022
• HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019

Fragrances of this family

• Diorissimo

Sources

1. OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
2. KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
3. LIL-1 · Fichter SC, Groth K, Fiedler N, Kolossa-Gehring M, Dębiak M, on behalf of the INGER Study Group. Lysmeral Exposure in Children and Adolescences Participating in the German Environmental Survey (2012-2015): Integrating Sex/Gender into Analysis. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 2022;19(24):17072. DOI 10.3390/ijerph192417072. PMID 36554956. PMCID PMC9778794. doi.org/10.3390/ijerph192417072 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0

Our text and structure are CC BY 4.0; quoted source text stays under its owners’ terms.

this record as data: /data/accord/muguet-teaching-accord.json · version 4 · updated 2026-10-01 · confidence B