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The recordsAll teaching accords

Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record

The chypre skeleton

The chypre skeleton: bergamot over labdanum and oakmoss.

Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.

It is the frame the chypre family is built on. The oakmoss is the part that regulation changed, so it is the part to study.

Read the essay · Its fingerprint in the Olfactory Genome · Its trail in the Spatial Sillage Lab · As a scent instruction (the Device API draft)

The record

Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.

Name
The chypre skeleton
house interpretation

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the house’s name for this teaching accord

confidence C

Purpose
teaching
house rule

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas are never published here

confidence B

Structure
The chypre skeleton: a citrus top (bergamot) over a resinous, mossy base (labdanum and oakmoss).
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

no filed source spells out the three materials; they are the trade’s convention. The Osmothèque classes Le Chypre (Coty, 1917), Mitsouko and Miss Dior in the chypre family (OSMO-1)

confidence B

Family
chypre (the Osmothèque’s "Chypré")
perfumery convention

Chypre (Le) 1° Édition COTY 1917 EXT Chypré François Coty

OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30

the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure

confidence B

Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula.
ComponentRoleTeaching partsVolatility
Bergamot essential oil
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s convention

confidence B

top
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

50 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil

Labdanum absolute
documented

the extraction of its exuded resin (which has the commercial name of labdanum “gum”) for the fragrance/perfumery industry, because of its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris

LAB-1 · Frazão et al. (2024). Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L. as a Source of Compounds with Anti-Diabetic, Neuroprotective and Anti-Proliferative Activity · read 2026-09-30

confidence A

base
perfumery convention

Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume

KLE-1 · Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · read 2026-09-30

the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention

confidence B

30 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute

Oakmoss absolute
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s convention; oakmoss is now restricted (IFRA) and its atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics

confidence B

base
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

20 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute

Substitutions
  • For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.
    inferred

    Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

    IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA) · read 2026-09-30
    EU-2017-1410 · Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · read 2026-09-30

    inferred from the standard and the regulation; no filed source names a commercial substitute

    confidence B

Regulations that apply to a component
Odour descriptors
In history
Fragrances of this family

Causal Debugger why did this change matter?

Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not legal advice.

Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.

One change

Without JavaScript these controls stay still: every single change is worked out below.

Modeled · before → after

Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.

Every single change, worked out without JavaScript: the worked cases.

Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): oakmoss absolute: An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.

What the model reads, with its evidence

labdanum absolute
descriptors: balsamic, amber
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the record

· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: from Cistus ladanifer L.; no origin on record for Cistus ladanifer L.; A resin in a Carthaginian tomb, identified as labdanum (6th–5th century BC) (probable)
oakmoss absolute
descriptors: mossy
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the record

· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (restriction / specification); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)); Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (a prohibition (Annex II)) · provenance: from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)

the model’s input as data: /data/causal/chypre-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build

Perfume Autopsy two versions, side by side

Teaching variants · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Its versions below are teaching variants of it, not commercial perfume formulas and not the formula of any real perfume. Everything compared is computed by the teaching model the Causal Debugger uses: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how anything smells. Regulation lines are flags, not legal advice.

Pick two versions of this accord and see what changed, then what follows from it: the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it could smell different.

The versions, and why each exists

  1. Version 1 · Classic oakmoss teaching variant, modeled

    Why it exists: the record as written. The skeleton as the record writes it: bergamot over labdanum and a full measure of oakmoss, as the trade has long described the chypre family.

    perfumery convention

    the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

    the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention); the Osmothèque classes Le Chypre (Coty, 1917) in the chypre family, linked for context only

    field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 1 · why

    confidence B

    Le Chypre: Coty, 1917 (history) · Le Chypre (a historical fragrance, for context only)

  2. Version 2 · Less oakmoss, low in atranol teaching variant, modeled

    Why it exists: a regulation on record. The oakmoss rules. An IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law; Amendment 49, 2020) restricts oakmoss extracts by concentration and specifies their atranol and chloroatranol. EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits atranol and chloroatranol in cosmetic products placed on the EU market from 23 August 2019. Less moss, of a low-atranol grade, is a house teaching example of a response.

    documented

    For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products.

    International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record

    the rules are documented (their Regulation records); the proportions and the response are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record

    field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · why

    confidence B

    Grade: oakmoss absolute, an oakmoss extract with atranol and chloroatranol each below the level the IFRA specification states

    inferred

    Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

    International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record

    inferred from the standard and the EU regulation; no record holds such an extract separately, so the model reads the same oakmoss record for it

    field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · grade

    confidence B

    IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (IFRA: an industry standard, not law) · Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (EU law) · IFRA’s 49th Amendment, 2020 (history) · HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (history)

  3. Version 3 · No oakmoss, woods instead teaching variant, modeled

    Why it exists: A house teaching example: the skeleton with the oakmoss taken out and two woody materials put in its place (vetiver oil and Iso E Super, both on record), to show which words and flags leave with the moss and which arrive with the woods.

    house interpretation

    the house’s own reading, labelled as such

    a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume

    field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 3 · why

    confidence C

    Iso E Super, 1972 (history)

Each version in teaching parts (modeled; each version adds up to 100 parts; a dash: not in that version)
ComponentV1V2V3
bergamot essential oil505045
labdanum absolute303830
oakmoss absolute2012 gradednot in this version
vetiver oilnot in this versionnot in this version15
Iso E Supernot in this versionnot in this version10

With JavaScript, any two of the 3 versions can be compared.

Modeled · A → B

Pick two versions above to compare them. Version 1 against version 2, worked out without JavaScript: the worked comparison.

the comparison’s input as data: the versions of this accord (JSON) · the model, as code, built on the Causal Debugger’s model

Sources

  1. OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
  2. KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
  3. LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al. Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L. as a Source of Compounds with Anti-Diabetic, Neuroprotective and Anti-Proliferative Activity. Molecules. 2024;29(10):2222. doi.org/10.3390/molecules29102222 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
  4. IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49 (2020). Geneva: IFRA Standards Library. d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFR… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
  5. EU-2017-1410 · Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. OJ L 202, 3.8.2017, p. 1. eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj · read 2026-09-30 · EU reuse policy (Commission Decision 2011/833/EU): reuse for commercial or non-commercial purposes, with acknowledgement of the source

Our text and structure are CC BY 4.0; quoted source text stays under its owners’ terms.

this record as data: /data/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.json · version 2 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence B