A cologne · the worked cases
Worked out when the page was built
The HTML equivalents of the accord’s two tools, for reading without JavaScript. Back to A cologne.
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 45 → 90 parts (45.0 → 62.1 per 100); the others ×0.69.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 45.0 → 62.1, “fresh” 60.0 → 72.4, “bright” 15.0 → 10.3, “medicinal” 10.0 → 6.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 13.8.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “bright” and “medicinal”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 79.3 / 20.7 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.9 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 45.0 to 62.1 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 79.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.9 h instead of 2.1 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
Remove bergamot essential oil
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 45 → 0 parts (45.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.82.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 45.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 27.3, “bright” 15.0 → 27.3, “medicinal” 10.0 → 18.2; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 36.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “bright” and “medicinal”, less “fresh” and no “citrus” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 45.5 / 54.5 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 3.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
- Why did this change matter?
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
- bergamot essential oil carried “citrus” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double limonene (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- limonene 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
- 2 · Molecules
- limonene itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “bright” 15.0 → 26.1, “citrus” 45.0 → 39.1, “fresh” 60.0 → 65.2, “medicinal” 10.0 → 8.7; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 17.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “bright” and “fresh” and less “citrus” and “medicinal”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 73.9 / 26.1 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- limonene (0.038 ppm (v/v) in air, measured): ×1.74; no ratio with linalyl acetate (air, ng/L); no ratio with linalool (air, ng/L).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “bright” go from 15.0 to 26.1 per 100 parts, because limonene carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 73.9 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.0 h instead of 2.1 h (limonene is top, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove limonene
- 1 · Composition
- limonene 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
- 2 · Molecules
- limonene itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “bright” 15.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 52.9, “fresh” 60.0 → 52.9, “medicinal” 10.0 → 11.8; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 23.5.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “medicinal”, less “fresh” and no “bright” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 64.7 / 35.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- limonene (0.038 ppm (v/v) in air, measured): ×0; no ratio with linalyl acetate (air, ng/L); no ratio with linalool (air, ng/L).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- limonene carried “bright” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 45.0 to 52.9 per 100 parts, because limonene, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 64.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.3 h instead of 2.1 h (limonene is top, from its volatility class, modeled).
Double linalyl acetate (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- linalyl acetate 10 → 20 parts (10.0 → 18.2 per 100); the others ×0.91.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalyl acetate itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “refined” 10.0 → 18.2, “sweet” 10.0 → 18.2, “fresh” 60.0 → 54.5, “citrus” 45.0 → 40.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 18.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “refined” and “sweet” and less “fresh” and “citrus”, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 63.6 / 36.4 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalyl acetate (110.9 ng/L in air, measured): ×1.82; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; linalyl acetate 0.03 → 0.06 of the leader; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “refined” go from 10.0 to 18.2 per 100 parts, because linalyl acetate carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 36.4 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.3 h instead of 2.1 h (linalyl acetate is heart, from its role in the accord).
Remove linalyl acetate
- 1 · Composition
- linalyl acetate 10 → 0 parts (10.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.11.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalyl acetate itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “refined” 10.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 10.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 66.7, “citrus” 45.0 → 50.0; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 22.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus” and no “refined” and “sweet” left, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 77.8 / 22.2 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.9 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalyl acetate (110.9 ng/L in air, measured): ×0; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- linalyl acetate carried “refined” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- linalyl acetate carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 22.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.9 h instead of 2.1 h (linalyl acetate is heart, from its role in the accord).
Double linalool (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- linalool 10 → 20 parts (10.0 → 18.2 per 100); the others ×0.91.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalool itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “medicinal” 10.0 → 18.2, “sharp” 10.0 → 18.2, “fresh” 60.0 → 54.5, “citrus” 45.0 → 40.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 18.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “medicinal” and “sharp” and less “fresh” and “citrus”.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 72.7 / 27.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalool (3.2 ng/L in air, measured): ×1.82; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “medicinal” go from 10.0 to 18.2 per 100 parts, because linalool carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 72.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.0 h instead of 2.1 h (linalool is top, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove linalool
- 1 · Composition
- linalool 10 → 0 parts (10.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.11.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalool itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “medicinal” 10.0 → 0.0, “sharp” 10.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 66.7, “citrus” 45.0 → 50.0; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 22.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus” and no “medicinal” and “sharp” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 66.7 / 33.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.2 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalool (3.2 ng/L in air, measured): ×0; lead in air (ng/L): linalool → linalyl acetate; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- In odour activity (share ÷ measured threshold, compared in air, ng/L), the lead passes from linalool to linalyl acetate: a trace with a low threshold counts far beyond its share.
- linalool carried “medicinal” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- linalool carried “sharp” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double lavender essential oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- lavender essential oil 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with lavender essential oil rise linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “fresh” 60.0 → 50.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 37.5, “bright” 15.0 → 12.5, “medicinal” 10.0 → 8.3; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 33.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “fresh” and “citrus”, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 58.3 / 41.7 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.5 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 41.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.5 h instead of 2.1 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “fresh” go from 60.0 to 50.0 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove lavender essential oil
- 1 · Composition
- lavender essential oil 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with lavender essential oil leave linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “fresh” 60.0 → 75.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 56.3, “bright” 15.0 → 18.8, “medicinal” 10.0 → 12.5; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 0.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 87.5 / 12.5 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.7 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 12.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.7 h instead of 2.1 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “fresh” go from 60.0 to 75.0 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Version 1 against version 2
Modeled · A → B
A · Version 1 · The cologne as written → B · Version 2 · Less bergamot oil
1 · What changedmodeled
- bergamot essential oil: 45 → 25 parts (45.0 → 25.0 per 100)
- limonene: 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 30.0 per 100)
- linalyl acetate: 10 → 15 parts (10.0 → 15.0 per 100)
- linalool: the same 10 parts (10.0 → 10.0 per 100)
- lavender essential oil: the same 20 parts (20.0 → 20.0 per 100)
teaching parts · modeled
a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement
teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · teaching parts
confidence C
2 · Molecules
bergamot essential oil falls, with the molecules its record names: limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record); limonene itself rises; linalyl acetate itself rises.
Limonene · linalyl acetate · linalool · Bergapten · Limonene · linalyl acetate
3 · Odour spacemodeled
“citrus” 45.0 → 25.0, “bright” 15.0 → 30.0, “refined” 10.0 → 15.0, “sweet” 10.0 → 15.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 55.0 per 100 parts (the share of the accord whose components carry the word); no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 20.0.
bergamot essential oil: descriptors · documented
odore: caratteristico, gradevole, fresco, richiamante quello del pericarpo del Bergamotto;
Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian… · listed on the record
the specification’s odour line, in English; colour “da verde a giallo verdastro”, green to greenish yellow (PDO-1)
field: the bergamot essential oil record · descriptors
confidence A
limonene: descriptors · house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house card’s words (the /materials naturals limonene card); no descriptor source is filed
field: the limonene record · descriptors
confidence C
linalyl acetate: descriptors · house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house essay’s words for the ester in fine lavender; no descriptor source is filed
field: the linalyl acetate record · descriptors
confidence C
4 · A modeled readingmodeled
B against A. A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “bright” and “refined” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening.
Generated from the movements above: a modeled reading, not a prediction and not a smell.
5 · Dry-downmodeled
Top / heart / base: 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 in A → 65.0 / 35.0 / 0.0 in B, per 100 parts; half the accord gone at 2.1 h → 2.2 h (modeled half-lives: top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h).
half-lives · modeled
a modeled value: a stated assumption, not a measurement
the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”
bergamot essential oil: role · perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
field: this accord’s record · role
confidence B
6 · Odour activitymodeled
compared in air (ng/L): linalool leads in both; no measured threshold on record for bergamot essential oil and lavender essential oil. Thresholds from different media or units are never compared; a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord.
limonene: 0.038 ppm (v/v) in air · measured
Nagata (2003). Measurement of Odor Threshold by Triangle Odor Bag Method · listed on the record
isomer not stated, as this record; in water, (R)-limonene 13 µg/kg and (S)-limonene 8.0 µg/kg (OT-1)
field: the limonene record · threshold
confidence A
linalyl acetate: 110.9 ng/L in air · measured
Elsharif et al. (2015). Structure-odor relationships of linalool, linalyl acetate and their corresponding oxygenated derivatives · listed on the record
the group value (geometric mean); the eight assessors ranged from 12.7 to 407 ng/L
field: the linalyl acetate record · threshold
confidence A
linalool: 3.2 ng/L in air · measured
Elsharif et al. (2015). Structure-odor relationships of linalool, linalyl acetate and their corresponding oxygenated derivatives · listed on the record
in water, the racemate 0.58 µg/kg and (R)-linalool 0.087 µg/kg (OT-1); the site’s older figure came from a proprietary compilation (OT-4), withdrawn as a source on 2026-09-30, and is not repeated
field: the linalool record · threshold
confidence A
7 · Regulation flags
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products · EU law · a labelling condition (Annex III) · in both
- Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · EU law · a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens · in both
- IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed · IFRA: an industry standard, not law · restriction · in both
- IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils · IFRA: an industry standard, not law · restriction · in both
A flag follows presence, not dose: a smaller dose keeps the flag (several IFRA Standards on record restrict by concentration in finished products), and a teaching accord is neither a finished product nor assessed. US law: not on record. Not legal advice.
8 · Provenance
The same materials in both, so the provenance does not change. No price: nothing on this site is for sale.
Why could it smell different?
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 45.0 to 25.0 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it and moves.
documented
odore: caratteristico, gradevole, fresco, richiamante quello del pericarpo del Bergamotto;
Disciplinare per la denominazione di origine protetta “Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria – olio essenziale” (the Italian… · listed on the record
the specification’s odour line, in English; colour “da verde a giallo verdastro”, green to greenish yellow (PDO-1)
field: the bergamot essential oil record · descriptors
confidence A
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 65.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.2 h in B against 2.1 h in A (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
field: this accord’s record · role
confidence B
The top causes in the model, each with the record field it rests on. Modeled, not measured; not a prediction of how anything smells.
teaching accord only: not a commercial perfume formula, not for skin · the record
