A cologne

Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.

Everything in it is volatile, so it is bright and brief. The bergamot also shows why a natural oil can be regulated: its furocoumarins are phototoxic.

Read the essay · Its fingerprint in the Olfactory Genome · Its trail in the Spatial Sillage Lab · As a scent instruction (the Device API draft)

The record

Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.

Name

A cologne

house interpretation

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the house’s name for this teaching accord

confidence C

Purpose

teaching

house rule

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas are never published here

confidence B

Structure

A cologne: bergamot and its citrus molecules on top, a lavender heart, and nothing heavy under them.

perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s convention; the Osmothèque classes Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) and Eau Sauvage (1966) as Hespéridé (citrus)

confidence B

Family

citrus (the Osmothèque’s "Hespéridé")

perfumery convention

Eau De Cologne Impériale GUERLAIN 1853 EDC Hespéridé Pierre-François-Pascal

OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30

the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure

confidence B

Components

Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula.

Component	Role	Teaching parts	Volatility
Bergamot essential oil perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s convention confidence B	top perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	45 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil
Limonene documented They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998). GC-3 · Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application · read 2026-09-30 the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998) confidence B	top documented Typically, fresh and citric odorants, e.g., limonene, are top notes, while warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes KLE-1 · Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · read 2026-09-30 confidence A	15 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	top modeled modeled the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the house’s volatility table is a set of site constants, not measurements) confidence C
Linalyl acetate documented They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998). GC-3 · Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application · read 2026-09-30 the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot confidence B	heart perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	10 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for linalyl-acetate
Linalool documented They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998). GC-3 · Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application · read 2026-09-30 the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence confidence B	heart perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material confidence B	10 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	top modeled modeled the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the house’s volatility table is a set of site constants, not measurements) confidence C
Lavender essential oil perfumery convention the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source the trade’s convention confidence B	heart documented Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes KLE-1 · Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · read 2026-09-30 the review names lavender among the floral heart notes confidence A	20 parts modeled modeled teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making confidence C	not on record why no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil

Substitutions

• For bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto): A bergamot oil with its furocoumarins removed, for skin in the sun.
  documented

  However, in order to guarantee safety, bergapten and other phototoxic components should be removed from BEO, thus resulting a furocoumarin-free BEO.

  GC-3 · Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application · read 2026-09-30

  the review’s recommendation; IFRA restricts the expressed oil for phototoxicity (IFRA-087, IFRA-089)

  confidence A

Regulations that apply to a component

• IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed
• IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils
• Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
• Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)

Odour descriptors

• fresh
• citrus
• bright
• refined
• sweet
• sharp
• medicinal

In history

• The launch of Eau de Cologne Impériale: Guerlain, 1853
• The launch of Eau Sauvage: Dior, 1966

Fragrances of this family

• Eau de Cologne Impériale
• Eau Sauvage

Sources

1. OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
2. KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
3. GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G. Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application. Frontiers in Pharmacology 2015;6:36. DOI 10.3389/fphar.2015.00036. PMID 25784877. PMCID PMC4345801. doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY (version not recorded)
4. IFRA-087 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed, Amendment 49 (2020). Geneva: IFRA Standards Library. d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFR… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)

Our text and structure are CC BY 4.0; quoted source text stays under its owners’ terms.

this record as data: /data/accord/cologne-teaching-accord.json · version 3 · updated 2026-10-01 · confidence B