The recordsAll teaching accords
Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record
The fougère skeleton
The fougère skeleton: coumarin, oakmoss, geranium and bergamot, as a review names Fougère Royale’s materials, and lavender, as the family came to use it.
Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.
Coumarin gives the sweet hay, oakmoss the damp depth, bergamot the lift. Fougère Royale lent its name to a whole family of perfumes, and this skeleton is what they share.
Read the essay · Its fingerprint in the Olfactory Genome · Its trail in the Spatial Sillage Lab · As a scent instruction (the Device API draft)
The record
Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.
- Name
- The fougère skeleton
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house’s name for this teaching accord
confidence C
- Purpose
- teaching
house rule
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas are never published here
confidence B
- Structure
- The fougère skeleton after Fougère Royale: coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, with lavender as the family has used it since.
documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · read 2026-09-30
the four named materials are documented (ISO-2); lavender is the trade’s convention for the family and is marked so on its component
confidence A
- Family
- fougère (the Osmothèque’s "Fougère")
perfumery convention
Jicky GUERLAIN 1889 EXT Fougère Fougère Aimé Guerlain
OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30
the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure
confidence B
- Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula. Component Role Teaching parts Volatility Bergamot essential oil documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · read 2026-09-30
named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)
confidence A
top perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil
Lavender essential oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
no filed source names lavender in Fougère Royale; its place in the fougère family is the trade’s convention
confidence B
heart documented
Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes
KLE-1 · Kleoff et al. (2022). Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery · read 2026-09-30
the review names lavender among the floral heart notes
confidence A
30 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil
geranium oil (no Material record yet) documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · read 2026-09-30
named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)
confidence A
heart perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
15 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no record for this component, so no volatility class
Coumarin documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · read 2026-09-30
named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)
confidence A
base perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for coumarin
Oakmoss absolute documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · read 2026-09-30
named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)
confidence A
base perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
15 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute
- Substitutions
- For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.
inferred
Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.
IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA) · read 2026-09-30
inferred from the standard; no filed source names a commercial substitute
confidence B
- For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.
- Regulations that apply to a component
- IFRA Standard: Coumarin
- IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts
- IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed
- IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
- Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)
- Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)
- In history
- Fragrances of this family
Causal Debugger why did this change matter?
Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not legal advice.
Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.
Modeled · before → after
Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.
Every single change, worked out without JavaScript: the worked cases.
Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): oakmoss absolute: An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.
What the model reads, with its evidence
- bergamot essential oil
- descriptors: fresh, citrus· class: top (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed (restriction); IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils (restriction); Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Citrus bergamia Risso; grown in Calabria
documented
- lavender essential oil
- descriptors: not on record · class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Lavandula angustifolia Mill.; grown in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence; grown in Grasse; The AOC for Haute-Provence lavender, 1981 (documented)
- geranium oil
- descriptors: not on record · class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: no record for this component yet: nothing about it is on record
- Coumarin
- descriptors: sweet, spicy, hay· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Coumarin (restriction); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)) · provenance: Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868 (documented)
documented
- oakmoss absolute
- descriptors: mossy· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (restriction / specification); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)); Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (a prohibition (Annex II)) · provenance: from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the model’s input as data: /data/causal/fougere-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build
Perfume Autopsy two versions, side by side
Teaching variants · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a commercial perfume formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Its versions below are teaching variants of it, not commercial perfume formulas and not the formula of any real perfume. Everything compared is computed by the teaching model the Causal Debugger uses: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how anything smells. Regulation lines are flags, not legal advice.
Pick two versions of this accord and see what changed, then what follows from it: the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it could smell different.
The versions, and why each exists
Version 1 · The skeleton as written teaching variant, modeled
Why it exists: the record as written. The skeleton as the record writes it: the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, with lavender as the family has used it since.
documented
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · listed on the record
the materials are documented; the proportions are the house’s teaching parts, not Fougère Royale’s (none are on record, and none are given)
field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 1 · why
confidence B
Fougère Royale: Houbigant, 1882 or 1884 (history) · Fougère Royale (a historical fragrance, for context only)
Version 2 · Without oakmoss teaching variant, modeled
Why it exists: a regulation on record. The oakmoss rules. An IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law) restricts oakmoss extracts by concentration and specifies their atranol and chloroatranol; EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits atranol and chloroatranol in cosmetic products from 23 August 2019. Leaving the moss out, its parts given to lavender and coumarin, is a house teaching example of the strictest response.
documented
For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products.
International Fragrance Association (IFRA); Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 · listed on the record
the rules are documented (their Regulation records); the proportions and the response are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record
field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 2 · why
confidence B
IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (IFRA: an industry standard, not law) · Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (EU law) · HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (history)
Version 3 · Without coumarin teaching variant, modeled
Why it exists: A house teaching example: the skeleton without coumarin, one of the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, to show what the family’s sweet hay rests on. Perkin’s synthesis of coumarin is linked for context.
house interpretation
In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant
Stepanyuk and Kirschning (2019). Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase · listed on the record
the review names the materials; taking coumarin out is the house’s teaching choice, and the version is not a reconstruction of any perfume
field: this accord’s record · teaching variants · version 3 · why
confidence C
| Component | V1 | V2 | V3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| bergamot essential oil | 20 | 20 | 25 |
| lavender essential oil | 30 | 35 | 40 |
| geranium oil | 15 | 15 | 20 |
| Coumarin | 20 | 30 | not in this version |
| oakmoss absolute | 15 | not in this version | 15 |
Modeled · A → B
Pick two versions above to compare them. Version 1 against version 2, worked out without JavaScript: the worked comparison.
the comparison’s input as data: the versions of this accord (JSON) · the model, as code, built on the Causal Debugger’s model
Sources
- ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A. Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2019;15:2590–2602. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
- KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49 (2020). Geneva: IFRA Standards Library. d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFR… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; short quotes and single facts only, under fair use (quoted, not reproduced)
Our text and structure are CC BY 4.0; quoted source text stays under its owners’ terms.
this record as data: /data/accord/fougere-teaching-accord.json · version 2 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence A