Skip to content

HombreOils · historical perfumery materials for creators, fragrance houses and collectors

HombreOils

Historic houses and makers

The houses, chemists and ateliers behind the collection.

Read the HombreOils palette through the people and companies that changed perfumery: Grasse extractors, scientific laboratories, couture houses and specialist suppliers. Each name is recorded alongside a material in the collection.

Grasse foundations

Where the modern language of natural extraction took shape

Three lineages lead into the workshops, fields and factories that made Grasse a world centre for perfumery materials.

Antoine Chiris

Grasse, France

1 material

A foundational Grasse house whose history joins flowers, industrial invention and the first great age of solvent extraction.

Milestones

  1. The Chiris perfume house is founded in Grasse.

  2. La Mosquée opens as the first purpose-built Grasse workshop for solvent extraction.

  3. The house receives a Grand Prix at the Paris Exposition Universelle.

Recorded alongside these materials

Cavallier Frères

Grasse, France

1 material

An old Grasse lineage spanning artisanal beginnings and the industrial expansion of natural extraction, before becoming part of Robertet.

Milestones

  1. The Cavallier family’s perfumery activity takes form in Grasse.

  2. A dedicated solvent-extraction plant marks the house’s industrial chapter.

  3. Cavallier Frères is acquired by Robertet.

Recorded alongside these materials

Calchauvet

Grasse industrial lineage

234 materials

The dominant historic name recorded alongside the collection brings together the industrial traditions associated with CAL (Camilli, Albert & Laloue) and Pierre Chauvet. Their January 1999 union formed Calchauvet. A surviving Danisco history abbreviates the merger parties as C.A.I. and Chauvet, so the expanded lineage remains explicitly source-qualified.

Milestones

  1. The Grasse predecessor line develops; the Camilli, Albert & Laloue name is documented from 1920.

  2. Period records show CAL/Pfizer and Pierre Chauvet et Cie as active natural-material businesses; CAL/Pfizer operated pilot and production CO₂ extraction plants.

  3. The two businesses merge as Calchauvet; Danisco records the parties in abbreviated form as C.A.I. and Chauvet.

International laboratories

Science enters the perfumer’s organ

Across Geneva, Zurich, New York and Tokyo, research transformed aroma chemistry while keeping creation at the centre.

Firmenich

Geneva, Switzerland

4 materials

A Geneva house where perfumery, molecular research and creative transmission grew side by side.

Milestones

  1. The company is founded in Geneva.

  2. Firmenich scientist Leopold Ruzicka shares the Nobel Prize in Chemistry for work on polymethylenes and higher terpenes.

Givaudan

Zurich origins, global perfumery

2 materials

A scientific and creative house whose history includes one of perfumery’s most influential schools.

Milestones

  1. Léon and Xavier Givaudan establish the company in Zurich.

  2. Jean Carles founds the Givaudan Perfumery School, formalising a method of learning materials by contrast and construction.

IFF

From the Netherlands to New York

1 material

A global perfumery lineage born from nineteenth-century ingredient expertise and later joined under the IFF name.

Milestones

  1. Polak & Schwarz begins the lineage that would become part of IFF.

  2. Polak & Schwarz and van Ameringen-Haebler merge as International Flavors & Fragrances.

  3. A rose travels aboard NASA mission STS-95 for an IFF scent experiment, linking perfumery to space research.

Recorded alongside these materials

Takasago

Tokyo, Japan

1 material

A Japanese aroma house whose first century connects national industry, fine fragrance and asymmetric synthesis.

Milestones

  1. Takasago Perfumery is founded in Japan.

  2. Founder Tadaka Kainosho receives a national honour for advancing Japan’s flavour and fragrance industry.

  3. Takasago industrialises Ryoji Noyori’s asymmetric route to l-menthol.

Recorded alongside these materials

Couture and perfume

Materials carried into the theatre of style

Bourjois and Patou show how perfumery moved between theatre, fashion and the intimate ritual of scent.

The working landscape

Specialist names from the later Grasse industry

These later houses and industrial names place the collection within the living professional landscape from which it emerged.