HombreOils · rare vintage perfumery for creators, fragrance houses and collectors
Catalogue lexicon · 61 records
Each abbreviation opens a small door into the working language of historical perfumery, extraction, concentration, treatment and grade. Follow the term into the materials where it appears.
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Absolute
Recommended interpretation
Absolute
Ethanol-soluble aromatic extract commonly obtained from a concrete, resinoid, pomade, or similar extract.
Typical context
Finished natural extract form; starting material and concentration still matter.
Caution
Do not assume purity or present condition from ABS alone.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Essence
Recommended interpretation
Essence
Historical French shorthand commonly used for an essential oil or citrus expression.
Typical context
Volatile aromatic material; exact production method depends on the full designation.
Caution
Do not infer steam distillation versus expression from ESS alone.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Huile essentielle / Essential Oil
Volatile oil obtained by distillation or, for suitable citrus materials, mechanical expression.
Typical context
Primary natural volatile-oil form.
Caution
Plant part, origin, and method remain product-specific.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Concrète / Concrete
Waxy solvent extract, typically from fresh plant material.
Typical context
Intermediate or sellable aromatic extract containing waxes and odorous material.
Caution
CTE is historical shorthand rather than a universal standard abbreviation.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Résinoïde / Resinoid
Solvent extract usually made from dry plant material, gum, balsam, or resin.
Typical context
Resinous extract form; may later be alcohol-washed into an absolute.
Caution
Preserve the code where the historic identity is proprietary.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Extract
Recommended interpretation
Extract
Generic extract designation.
Typical context
Signals extraction but not the solvent, concentration, or starting form.
Caution
Needs the surrounding designation for comparison.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Distillation moléculaire / Molecular Distillation
High-vacuum short-path fractionation used to isolate selected portions while limiting heat exposure.
Typical context
Can concentrate, decolourize, deodorize, or separate fractions depending on setup.
Caution
Describes processing, not purity or current condition.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Numbered molecular-distillation designations; the numbers are retained as recorded.
Recommended interpretation
Numbered molecular-distillation grades
These labels preserve a numbered molecular-distillation designation. The number alone does not establish the count or sequence of production stages.
Typical context
Retain the complete designation to distinguish the original grades in the collection.
Caution
Do not translate a numbered grade into a count of additional passes without producer documentation.
Lot verification
Required
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
SPD: short-path distillation; SD: unresolved historical code
SPD identifies short-path distillation, using high vacuum and a short vapour path. The separate SD code is retained without assigning it the same meaning.
Typical context
For SPD, the short path and reduced pressure support gentle separation of heat-sensitive or high-boiling components.
Caution
SD needs its own original documentation. A process name does not establish historical equipment or operating conditions.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Historical workshop notation
TT and HT are preserved as written in the original designations; their precise historical meaning remains unresolved.
Typical context
Part of the collection’s original workshop vocabulary.
Caution
Read the notation alongside the complete material designation.
Lot verification
Original designation retained
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Rectified
Redistilled or fractionated to alter or remove selected components.
Typical context
Refines an oil or extract and changes its composition.
Caution
Does not automatically mean colourless or compliant.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Purified
EP probably means épuré in designations such as DM EP.
Typical context
Signals a purification step.
Caution
Method and degree of purification are unknown.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Original grade code
DEC is retained as an original designation. Its initials alone do not establish decolourisation.
Typical context
Recorded on moss and oakmoss preparations; keep the complete grade designation.
Caution
Keep DEC separate from a written decolourisation statement and from INCO/INCOL colourless terminology.
Lot verification
Preserve the original code
Recommended interpretation
Decolourized
A written processing description indicating treatment to reduce colour.
Typical context
Applies where decolourisation is stated in the material record. The separate code DEC does not establish this meaning.
Caution
Method may be adsorption, distillation, or another process.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Incolore / Colourless
Historical colour description or grade.
Typical context
Indicates appearance, not composition.
Caution
Not proof of purity.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Unexplained historical code. Retained as part of the original record.
Recommended interpretation
Unexplained historical code
LA is retained exactly as it appears in the original designation. Its historical expansion has not been established.
Typical context
A reference within the collection’s original records.
Caution
No extraction process, treatment or composition is inferred from this code.
Lot verification
Original producer documentation needed to expand the code
Recommended interpretation
Probably entraînement à la vapeur
Likely steam entrainment or steam distillation.
Typical context
Steam carries volatile aromatic components away from the feed.
Caution
Process is credible; Calchauvet abbreviation is not independently verified.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Further refined
Indicates an additional finishing pass in the preparation of the aromatic material.
Typical context
A further-refinement designation; the finishing method is specific to the material.
Caution
State the exact operation only when documented.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Hexane
Normally identifies an extraction or re-extraction solvent.
Typical context
Non-polar solvent used for aromatic solvent extraction.
Caution
The full ENT VAP REP HEX process sequence remains unresolved.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
?
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved process sequence
Likely combines steam entrainment, a further refinement pass, and hexane recovery or re-extraction.
Typical context
Multi-stage historical processing clue.
Caution
Do not present a precise sequence without Calchauvet production records.
Lot verification
Required
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Short-path distillation (SPD)
In this collection, CD denotes distillation à chemin court: short-path distillation, also abbreviated SPD.
Typical context
The recorded CD designation on the Ceylon cinnamon bottom fraction identifies short-path distillation.
Caution
The code names the process; preparation-specific operating details are not part of the abbreviation.
Lot verification
Expansion confirmed; original designation retained
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Camilli, Albert & Laloue
CAL identifies the historical house Camilli, Albert & Laloue in this collection’s material designations.
Typical context
Historical manufacturer attribution, distinct from Pierre Chauvet.
Caution
The house name does not specify an extraction process or a quality grade.
Lot verification
House name confirmed; original designation retained
Catalogue matches
Colorized: Naturalized
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical designation
The embedded legend's Colorized: Naturalized wording is not technically established.
Typical context
Internal grade or processing clue.
Caution
Preserve verbatim.
Lot verification
Required
Recommended interpretation
Natural Distillation
ND identifies Natural Distillation in this collection’s Orris preparations.
Typical context
Historical processing notation on Orris material designations.
Caution
ND and N/D are separate notations; N/D is not assigned this expansion.
Lot verification
ND expansion confirmed; source spelling retained
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical designation
N/D is retained as written in the original record without assigning it a process meaning.
Typical context
Appears in the Vetiver invoice designation without an expansion.
Caution
Keep the slash: N/D is not treated as the confirmed Orris notation ND or expanded as Natural Distillation.
Lot verification
Required
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Sans bergaptène (without bergapten)
Sans bergaptène means without bergapten. SB is used for this wording in bergamot designations; the meaning of an original code depends on the material and its source record.
Typical context
The collection also contains SB on Clove Bud Absolute and Peppermint Oleoresin. For these preparations, SB remains an original grade designation until its material-specific meaning is established.
Caution
Do not transfer a bergamot preparation term to an unrelated oil, absolute or oleoresin solely from matching initials.
Lot verification
Material-specific interpretation
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Probably cold-pressed / cold-expressed
Likely identifies mechanically expressed citrus oil.
Typical context
Expression rather than steam distillation.
Caution
Exact CPE expansion remains undocumented.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Folded / concentrated oil
Oil concentrated by removing part of a more volatile fraction.
Typical context
Changes composition and odour strength.
Caution
Does not mean five-times purity of every constituent.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Probably sans terpènes / terpeneless
Indicates a terpene-reduced oil or fraction.
Typical context
Improves solubility/stability or changes odour profile depending on material.
Caution
Exact residual terpene level is unknown.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Sesquiterpene-reduced
A fraction from which sesquiterpenes have been reduced or removed.
Typical context
Lighter, more volatile composition than the complete oil.
Caution
Not necessarily fully terpeneless.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Terpene-rich fraction
A separated terpene-rich cut obtained during concentration or fractionation.
Typical context
Industrial fraction rather than complete essential oil.
Caution
Not commercially equivalent to the complete oil.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Dipropylene Glycol
Low-odour fragrance carrier or diluent.
Typical context
Reduces concentration and improves handling or solubility.
Caution
A DPG dilution must not be treated as neat material.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
DPG confirmed; MKS unresolved
Indicates a DPG-carried product with an unresolved MKS code.
Typical context
Diluted/carried historical product.
Caution
Preserve full code and request label or SDS evidence.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Original carrier notation
TEA is the original carrier designation in the 50% skatole preparation. The complete designation distinguishes this prepared dilution from neat skatole.
Typical context
Carrier/solvent and concentration qualifier.
Caution
Retain TEA without assigning a specific chemical: the abbreviation alone does not establish this historical carrier’s identity.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Miglyol carrier family
A branded family of liquid lipid carriers, including medium-chain triglycerides and other esters. Migliol preserves the spelling used in the historical material designation.
Typical context
Diluent/carrier for viscous or concentrated materials.
Caution
Exact grade is not shown; do not assume Miglyol 812.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved 80-degree/strength process notation
Probably material remaining from or processed with alcohol stated at 80 degrees/strength.
Typical context
Historical process/concentration clue.
Caution
Do not assume 80°C, 80% active, or 80% v/v without a process record.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Food grade
Alim abbreviates alimentaire: food grade in the original designation of Cubeb Resinoid.
Typical context
The grade designation is separate from the resinoid form.
Caution
The term names a grade, not an extraction method or an assay.
Lot verification
Original grade meaning confirmed
Recommended interpretation
Historical IFRA-related grade wording
Indicates how a historical grade was described relative to restrictions current at that time.
Typical context
Regulatory-era context only.
Caution
Not a current certificate or compliance statement.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Historical premium or selected grade
Supplier grade wording for a selected or special version.
Typical context
Commercial grade clue.
Caution
Not standardized purity or proof of superior current condition.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Possible proprietary grade or series
May identify an internal high-grade or series code.
Typical context
Historical product differentiation.
Caution
Do not expand to maximum grade.
Lot verification
Required
Recommended interpretation
Purchased material
French Achat means purchased; the letter A alone is not universal proof.
Typical context
Acquisition context.
Caution
Do not infer manufacturer from the seller or purchaser.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Imported material
Import is explicit where written; Batch I alone may be internal shorthand.
Typical context
Acquisition/source context.
Caution
Does not identify importer, origin, or producer by itself.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Produced / manufactured
Indicates a production context in the historical record.
Typical context
Source/provenance context.
Caution
Does not prove current producer identity or full vertical manufacture.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Second or revised variant
Often indicates a second/revised version of a reference or formula.
Typical context
Historical version qualifier.
Caution
Do not treat automatically as a duplicate physical container.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Probably alpha-dextro / dextrorotatory
Used in the alpha-pinene designation.
Typical context
Optical-isomer clue.
Caution
Do not assert measured rotation without documentation.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Floral pomade
Perfumed fat produced by enfleurage or maceration.
Typical context
Historical carrier/intermediate for delicate flowers.
Caution
Not equivalent to a neat absolute.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Alcoholic extraction of scented pomade
Likely an extract obtained toward exhaustive recovery from a floral pomade.
Typical context
Historical multi-step floral extraction.
Caution
Exact cycle count and residual fat are unknown.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical tuberose designation
No credible source established a precise meaning for this inventory term.
Typical context
Potential production or recovery qualifier.
Caution
Do not equate automatically with enfleurage, flower recharging, pressing, or exhaustion.
Lot verification
Required
Recommended interpretation
Wax-supported or wax-phase material
Material carried on, retained with, or processed from a wax phase.
Typical context
Supported/diluted form or intermediate.
Caution
Do not assume neat concentration.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Recreated blend
Blend prepared to reproduce a natural material or historical composition.
Typical context
Formulation rather than the named natural extract.
Caution
Not equivalent to the named natural material.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Reduced concentration
Material intentionally diluted with a carrier or solvent.
Typical context
Handling and concentration qualifier.
Caution
Require percentage and carrier before comparison or pricing.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Minimally refined grade
Unfinished or lightly processed material.
Typical context
Industrial/intermediate grade.
Caution
Not equivalent to a finished purified oil or extract.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Remaining material
Material remaining after extraction, distillation, washing, or recovery.
Typical context
Recovery/intermediate fraction.
Caution
Processing history is needed before comparison.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Early volatile cut
Early, more volatile portion of a distillation or fractionation.
Typical context
Lighter fraction.
Caution
Not equivalent to the complete oil.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Central selected cut
Central fraction selected during distillation or fractionation.
Typical context
Core odour fraction.
Caution
Heart does not prove superior quality without process/yield data.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Central or later body cut
Producer-specific description for a central/body fraction.
Typical context
Internal cut description.
Caution
Cut boundaries are producer-specific.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Late heavy or residual cut
Late, higher-boiling, or residual fraction after separation.
Typical context
Recovery or industrial fraction.
Caution
May not be a finished grade.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Solvent-extracted volatile and non-volatile material
Extract containing both volatile oil and resinous/non-volatile components.
Typical context
Different form from essential oil.
Caution
Not interchangeable with essential oil.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Proprietary fragrance blend
House or trade-name mixture used as a perfumery ingredient.
Typical context
Composite formula rather than one molecule.
Caution
Do not treat as a single chemical unless composition is established.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
Defined chemical or commercial molecule
Single compound or historically specified commercial chemical used in fragrance formulation.
Typical context
Synthetic or isolated perfumery ingredient.
Caution
Historical trade names may conceal mixtures or obsolete specifications.
Lot verification
Recommended where lot-specific
Recommended interpretation
ATS; BA1; CH; CQ257; CTX; GN; GU; HB; HR; JHA; KV; MKS; MS; NA; NB; OM; PEPE 10-16; R3705; R515; RS; SMOS; STY; TER; TL
Internal, proprietary, client, grade, or reference codes not securely expanded from public sources.
Typical context
Identity and search clues only.
Caution
Retain verbatim and seek original labels, invoices, formula cards, technical sheets, or producer catalogues.
Lot verification
Required
